I just changed the oil, filter, and HCM filter. When I started it up I got the check engine light, it went into limp mode, and it showed the VSS light. I have changed the oil before and never had a problem. Only thing I did different this time was also change the HCM filter. Anyone else have this happen and if so, what was the solution?
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HCM filter change, now in Limp Mode with Engine & VSS Lights - anyone else? Any solutions?
- Thread starter jetmechoh
- Start date
I rode it about 15 miles and stopped and restarted it about 3 times. Oil level is full. Shows to codes and both are brake related. I really don't understand that.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
What were the codes?
CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
How much oil did you fill it with, with an HCM filter change it takes about 200 ml more 4900 compared to 4700 ml if I remember right.
Also you should let it idle for about 15-30 min after the change to let it purge the air out without being able to use BUDS to due a purge.
if it doesn't go away as a last resort coming from an IT guy ... turn it off and turn it back on again. Disconnect the battery, turn the ignition on and hit the brakes to discharge any capacitors that may still have a charge on them.
Then reconnect your battery and let it idle for a couple of minutes.
I would also recommend you check your battery voltage just to eliminate the possibility of any false codes from a bad battery.
Update; I just looked up those codes and they are for the brake light switch, did you bump into the switch or the wiring for the brake switch while changing it out ? It is near that cover.
Also , I just recently found while doing my winter maintenance that the nut had fallen off my brake linkage and the only thing holding the linkage together was the safety retainer. Visually inspect your brake linkage and switch .
But I would definitely start with checking your battery voltage before starting anything else as that is the easiest to eliminate first.
Also you should let it idle for about 15-30 min after the change to let it purge the air out without being able to use BUDS to due a purge.
if it doesn't go away as a last resort coming from an IT guy ... turn it off and turn it back on again. Disconnect the battery, turn the ignition on and hit the brakes to discharge any capacitors that may still have a charge on them.
Then reconnect your battery and let it idle for a couple of minutes.
I would also recommend you check your battery voltage just to eliminate the possibility of any false codes from a bad battery.
Update; I just looked up those codes and they are for the brake light switch, did you bump into the switch or the wiring for the brake switch while changing it out ? It is near that cover.
Also , I just recently found while doing my winter maintenance that the nut had fallen off my brake linkage and the only thing holding the linkage together was the safety retainer. Visually inspect your brake linkage and switch .
But I would definitely start with checking your battery voltage before starting anything else as that is the easiest to eliminate first.
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Thanks @CloverHillCrawler, I'll give that a try.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
It does. Your brake signal from your brake light switch is implausible when compared to the actual brake pressure sensed in the system. So, it’s either a signal that your brakes are on, with no pressure - as though you're riding the brake pedal slightly - or you have brake pressure with no signal from your brake light switch. Any possibility that you tweaked on your brake pedal linkage while you were doing all this maintenance? Jacking it up? Removing that clutch cover plug? Brake light switch spring? Do your brake lights work? Are they stuck on? Have you had your Brake Light Switch RECALL done? Fuses? You get the idea.
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