russellsprout
New member
I'm getting three fault codes:
V0416
C006C
C003A
What's wrong? Can anyone help? What do I do to fix this?
V0416
C006C
C003A
What's wrong? Can anyone help? What do I do to fix this?
-
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What do these fault codes mean? V0416; C006C; C003A
- Thread starter russellsprout
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
It's most likely U0416 and not V0416, right?
This relates to your rear speed sensor and the speed signal from it being implausible. Did you do any work back there? Change tires or brakes? Damage/remove the sensor? This thread even identifies that dirt clogging up the hole that the sensor is mounted in, can affect the signal. Turned out, it wasn't the tires after all.
if you changed the rear tire, or otherwise ran the rear wheel with it up in the air, all you have to do is go ride around for a bit.. (in that thread, you can ignore that whole 3500 RPM, 35 MPH thing. It's nonsense. Just ride around at highway speed.)
This relates to your rear speed sensor and the speed signal from it being implausible. Did you do any work back there? Change tires or brakes? Damage/remove the sensor? This thread even identifies that dirt clogging up the hole that the sensor is mounted in, can affect the signal. Turned out, it wasn't the tires after all.
if you changed the rear tire, or otherwise ran the rear wheel with it up in the air, all you have to do is go ride around for a bit.. (in that thread, you can ignore that whole 3500 RPM, 35 MPH thing. It's nonsense. Just ride around at highway speed.)
Last edited:
russellsprout
New member
Is there an easy way to reset the RT to remove the fault code error?
In many instances like yours appears to be here, the simplest way to clear the codes is (as discussed in the thread that @Snowbelt Spyder linked earlier/above) just to carefully ride the bike for a little bit. 
Generally, if you got those codes simply because you ran the RT with the rear wheel in the air &/or it was a minor issue with the sensors or tone rings etc, it won't take anywhere near as much as 30-40 metres of gentle riding to clear the codes; but sometimes, if the pressure switch or parking brake got involved as well, it might take as much as 100-200 metres of riding with a few gentle left to right swerves and back again thrown in!
Basically, if you've fixed whatever caused the codes and the issue that may have been alerting you to a potential problem or just confusion in the messages the computers were getting (ie. it was not a Major Safety Concern and it's gone now anyway!) so that whatever is no longer happening, then simply riding the trike carefully for a bit will do the job. If it doesn't, then that probably means there's still something wrong somewhere!
Ps: This entire Forum is dedicated to Can Am Spyders & Rykers in all their model/variations including the Specials, the Canyons, Sports, and the Rally versions; so rather than just calling your trike simply a 'can am spyder', even if you do give us the year, and still leaving us to take a wild guess as to what the truly 'important to know' model might be, it's waaaaay more helpful if you tell us what year and model of 'Can Am Spyder' (or Ryker) you might have, like an RT, an F3, maybe a Canyon, or a Ryker.
You can pretty much always leave the 'Can Am' bit out, cos we don't often refer to cars manufacturers like Porsche or Alfa Romeo here on this SpyderLovers Forum; and you can even leave the whole 'Can Am Spyder' bit out entirely, cos that's almost always going to be a given too (unless maybe you're posting in the Off-Topic area) but please do tell us what year your trike is and whether it's an RT, an F3, a Canyon, or a Ryker - That, along with the year and occasionally, the engine size, is the info we generally need to know to properly answer any questions about your particular trike, which is why the following Sticky asks members to include that info in their Sig Line:
It's pretty easy to put that year and model info into your sig line, the steps are detailed in the thread above at post #129 by @Mikey - the earlier methods mentioned were for the old platform, so they won't help any more.
Generally, if you got those codes simply because you ran the RT with the rear wheel in the air &/or it was a minor issue with the sensors or tone rings etc, it won't take anywhere near as much as 30-40 metres of gentle riding to clear the codes; but sometimes, if the pressure switch or parking brake got involved as well, it might take as much as 100-200 metres of riding with a few gentle left to right swerves and back again thrown in!
Basically, if you've fixed whatever caused the codes and the issue that may have been alerting you to a potential problem or just confusion in the messages the computers were getting (ie. it was not a Major Safety Concern and it's gone now anyway!) so that whatever is no longer happening, then simply riding the trike carefully for a bit will do the job. If it doesn't, then that probably means there's still something wrong somewhere!
Ps: This entire Forum is dedicated to Can Am Spyders & Rykers in all their model/variations including the Specials, the Canyons, Sports, and the Rally versions; so rather than just calling your trike simply a 'can am spyder', even if you do give us the year, and still leaving us to take a wild guess as to what the truly 'important to know' model might be, it's waaaaay more helpful if you tell us what year and model of 'Can Am Spyder' (or Ryker) you might have, like an RT, an F3, maybe a Canyon, or a Ryker.
You can pretty much always leave the 'Can Am' bit out, cos we don't often refer to cars manufacturers like Porsche or Alfa Romeo here on this SpyderLovers Forum; and you can even leave the whole 'Can Am Spyder' bit out entirely, cos that's almost always going to be a given too (unless maybe you're posting in the Off-Topic area) but please do tell us what year your trike is and whether it's an RT, an F3, a Canyon, or a Ryker - That, along with the year and occasionally, the engine size, is the info we generally need to know to properly answer any questions about your particular trike, which is why the following Sticky asks members to include that info in their Sig Line:
One off our members has sent me a private message requesting the following:
Would you ask all members to provide information about their Spyder/Ryker year, model in their signatures.
This will go a long way in helping people determine a good answer to questions that get posted, and do not appear in a specific forum for the product.
This will provide a quicker and more accurate reply in quite a few situations.
Would you ask all members to provide information about their Spyder/Ryker year, model in their signatures.
This will go a long way in helping people determine a good answer to questions that get posted, and do not appear in a specific forum for the product.
This will provide a quicker and more accurate reply in quite a few situations.
It's pretty easy to put that year and model info into your sig line, the steps are detailed in the thread above at post #129 by @Mikey - the earlier methods mentioned were for the old platform, so they won't help any more.
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