2020 RT Brake Issue - had the recall, pedal still won't return on its own! Any ideas?

[laythg]

Hi Everyone.

I bought a new to me 2020 RTL. This is my 3rd RT (2012, 2018, 2020). It has 16,000 miles on it.

Here's the deal. I know about the brake switch recall and it has been done on this Spyder.

However, when it is cold, the brakes work as expected. But after 20 minutes of riding or so after it warms up, the brakes don't release completely, the brake light stays on, and of course the cruise doesn't work. If I grab the pedal with my toe and lift, the brakes release, and the light goes off. The pedal doesn't return fully on its own. I know it's not just a mis-adjusted brake light switch because I can tell the brakes are dragging until I lift the pedal, then they're fine.

I have cleaned the brake pedal pivot and it seems free. I also cleaned around the pivot near the brake switch where the brake pedal rod connects. That also seems fine. I also replaced the brake pedal tension spring with no effect.

Does anyone know what might cause this issue only when the Spyder is hot? I would take it to the dealer but I'm afraid they won't take the time to ride it long enough for the issue to happen and just say it works fine.

Thanks for any ideas!
Layth

 

[Mikey]

You say the brakes are dragging... are you sure of that, or are you just going by the light? I know you said you checked and changed the spring, but if you are lifting it with your toe and everything is good to go, it sounds like that return spring is not tight enough; or your switch needs a little tweaking as it's not coming into play where it should! On the older bikes we had to put a double set of return springs on. They are real close to the header pipe, maybe that is warming the spring up enough to weaken it a bit, hard telling not having it in front of me! Good luck, a shop will probably change the switch and send you out the door! P.S Have you done a brake fluid flush yet?

 

[laythg]

You say the brakes are dragging... are you sure of that, or are you just going by the light? I know you said you checked and changed the spring, but if you are lifting it with your toe and everything is good to go, it sounds like that return spring is not tight enough; or your switch needs a little tweaking as it's not coming into play where it should! On the older bikes we had to put a double set of return springs on. They are real close to the header pipe, maybe that is warming the spring up enough to weaken it a bit, hard telling not having it in front of me! Good luck, a shop will probably change the switch and send you out the door! P.S Have you done a brake fluid flush yet?

Hi Mikey.

Thanks so much for your input!

I believe the brakes are dragging because when I come home from a long ride where I’m seeing the issue with the light, I have tested rolling it by hand and it seems more difficult after I push the pedal but before I lift it again. I hope that makes sense.

I only got the Spyder a week or so ago so I haven’t flushed the fluid. But I did open the reservoir and it’s pretty brown. I don’t know if it matters to this issue but the front section of the reservoir (rear brake) was pretty low compared to the rear compartment.

Thanks again for your input. Really appreciate it.

 

[mecsw500]

It’s six years old now. I’d check the master cylinder isn’t overfilled preventing the pistons from withdrawing. Someone may have topped it up for sale.

Because of its age, I’d have the fluid replaced, I.e. flushed, by the dealer, using the BUDS system to flush the ABS pump.

After six years I suspect nobody changed the fluid due to mileage being low but it ages out by then even if it has 1600 miles on it, especially if you live somewhere humid.

If you take a look in the master cylinder I suspect the fluid is a nasty black color.

This may not solve your problem but it’s something that needs doing anyway and at least that’s one unknown out of the equation.

The issue is going to likely come down to one of three problems. First, is the mechanical brake pedal linkage binding somehow, two the master cylinder is overfilled and when fluid is hot and expanded a little it can’t fit back into the master cylinder, and three you have one or more pistons stuck in a caliper due to corrosion that is not returning when you let off the brakes, worsened when hot. Oh, there’s a fourth one I guess in that the ABS pump is not behaving correctly.

If it were me, and you’ve tried the obvious, it’s brakes and their correct operation being critical to the stability control system as well as the ability to stop. I would take it to a dealer, explain the issue and have them fix it. They should warranty their work and if they don’t fix it they should cover that.

I know that fixing things yourself is a pride of ownership and self sufficiency thing, and it’s often, but not always, cheaper. However, at some stage you have to throw in the towel and get the dealer to fix it. This is especially true of braking systems unless that is your area of expertise.

I hate I have to take mine to the dealer now for even regular maintenance but my health and arthritis prevents me from doing the things I know I could have easily have done myself at one time. I’m glad I just have a competent and honest dealer to fall back upon. Interview your tech to see if he or she knows what they are talking about when it comes to Spyder’s in general. Ask about their BRP training and make sure they are adequately trained to work on BRP vehicles. Any decent BRP shop will be proud to answer those kinds of questions.

Sorry, I’ll stop droning on now, I hope this helps.