Just a quick note here people -
ALL Spyders and Rykers leave the factory with 'a swaybar'!
If it's the OEM bar, some might consider that it only works about as well as a limp pool noodle would work, but it's still there and it
IS still having some 'anti-sway' effect, and it's
NOT changing or contributing how the tire interacts/scrapes with/on the inside of the fenders up front, as both the sway bar and the fenders are connected to and move with the front wishbones that the wheel hubs are mounted onto the very end of - so if you've got tires that are scraping on the inside of the front fenders!
Of course, we all know that there's some Spyders/Rykers with the OEM sway bars, and some which might have any one of a number of upgraded sway bars, most of which work a whole lot better'n the OEM pool noodles, Ron's especially, and his 'Ultra' offerings, even more so! But they still don't impact
AT ALL on the tire rubbing on the inside of the fenders...
However, if your FRONT TIRE PRESSURES aren't set at a pressure to suit the load on them properly, that
MIGHT actually
cause some scraping issues!! And funnily enough, until you get so stupidly and dangerously high in tire pressures that the tire begins to act like a steel wheel on a railway bogie, so that it doesn't easily flex at all in any measurable way,
it's generally going (or staying) too HIGH with your front tire pressures that is more likely to cause them to rub on the inside of the fenders!! 
If the pressure is set at something suitable to the load on your tires, which is generally a lot lower than those 'too hard' railway bogie pressures (don't laugh too loudly - some who haven't known better have seen the Maximum Load/Pressure label on the sidewall and set their tires to that pressure!
), then the tire tread in any reasonable quality tire will generally stay/be held fairly flat across the tread face on the road surface, while still being soft enough to conform to any irregularities in said surface and having a little bit of give/flex/twist in the section of tire carcass that's the bit immediately OFF the ground/road surface, so that almost all of the give/flex/twist in the tire happens within a couple of inches of the ground/road surface - this is how Radial car tires (like those that are fitted to all Spyders/Rykers) are designed and intended to work!! They are meant to be set a pressures low enough to allow them to flex more than cross ply tires and most motorcycle tires in order to keep more of their tread surface firmly mated to the road surface et al, with a fair amount of 'give' & flex in the bit of tire carcass that's juuust off the ground, which is also why they are
MEANT to look a little baggy or as if they are running a bit low in pressure and why they should 'feel' a little softer/spongier and maybe even a little less
immediately 'direct' in the steering than if they're over-inflated - and amongst other things, also why your ride should be better, your tire's traction better, your tire's puncture resistance better, and your tire life better! But they shouldn't be so soft/lightly constructed in the carcass &/or tread that the centre of the tread can flung out by centripetal force as the tire rotates/speed increases, like it is on the OEM tires, albeit to a lesser extent on the KR20 Kanines and even less on the most recent XPS branded tires.
But if you pump your A/mkt Spyder/Ryker tires up too high/run a pressure that's needlessly high for the given (lighter) load of a Spyder/Ryker over that of most cars, (ie. anything much more than 18 psi) then besides all that other stuff that radial tires run at the right pressure can give you, that 'give' and flex close to the ground disappears and much more of the carcass is twisted and skewed as you get further away from the ground, meaning that those higher than ideal pressures are more likely to contribute to, if not actually
cause, any scraping under the front fenders where things can get close! Run them at too high of a pressure for tge load, and the tire casing itself will still be twisting/flexed when it gets up to where the fenders, brackets, and wiring etc all get pretty close to the sidewall, maybe enough to cause them to scrape!?!
So if your A/mkt tires have been scraping under the front fenders, that
could have been due to a lack of clearance issue from the factory; or it
could have been because of the way the wiring clips were oriented,
OR it could possibly be that you were simply running a tire pressure in your A/mkt tires that's just too high for the lighter load of a Spyder, or any mix of all those & maybe more besides! But before you get too bogged down in chasing all the other possibilities, maybe you should just check and possibly set your A/mkt tire pressures to 18 psi or so.
Just Sayin' - again!
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